Today India made my heart bleed. The Sun Temple in Konark is my favourite monument in India. I have wonderful memories of my first visit almost 10 years ago; an incredible spectacle looming up in the middle of nowhere. One man selling Patachitra, etched palm leaves, trees lined the streets and entry into a monument…
Horn Please! Indian roads, journeys from heaven and journeys from hell.
I am not a nervous passenger by any stretch of the imagination. I can quite happily be chauffeured around on the worst of Indian roads, barely blinking at what most travellers to the country find, … Source: Horn Please! Indian roads, journeys from heaven and journeys from hell.
He is 80 and he survived his first trip to India – Dad’s trip, the dids’ and the did nots.
So dad leaves tonight after a long three weeks which have absolutely flown by. He is currently tucked up in bed with a cup of tea and the Far Pavillions, a book which it transpires, is also a three week journey. My aim was to showcase my world to him, my India, the place I…
Memsahib’s Dad in India, Part 7, The Beauty of Kanha
The morning sun rises and the mists disperse, shoulders hunched against the cold begin to straighten and chins emerge from their muffle of scarves. Dust motes dance & tease in celebration, captured within the shafts of sunlight breaking the canopy of the trees, but will the emerging forest reveal it’s rich bounty? The afternoon safari…
You’re Never Too Old! Memsahib’s Dad Visits India aged 80 – Part 6.
Udaipur Part 1: When passion meets tourism, a story teller emerges. You may have noticed dad is a classic car buff and this trip has partly been about him seeing various private collections. Yesterday we arrived in Udaipur and thanks to Dushyant Singh Rathore we were able to visit his private collection at Fateh Bagh…
Memsahib’s Dad Visits India, aged 80 – Part 5.
It’s never too late! Travels around India with my octogenarian dad. Dungarpur was meant to be all for dad, the car collection here was the ‘must’ and the bar is truly any petrol head’s delight. But, from cars to kachories to a museum curation, quirks and the karma sutra, it turned out to be a…
Snapshots – Ladakh
Snapshot – Ladakh. I’ve been to two lots of polo in the last three weeks, the terribly sophisticated polo we are all more familiar with at the Rajasthan Polo Club and then the slightly less sophisticated verson played in Ladakh! Health and safety (on behalf of the spectators) was clearly not a concern for anyone,…
Memsahib’s dad visits India, aged 80 – Part 4.
I am not sure if two years in a row makes something an annual event, but it would be rather nice to think so. Christmas 2015 at Devshree was all about lovely walks, exploring the fort, lazy lunches, chilling out on charpois after a farm cooked lunch (and discovering the delights of cow s**t bread…
Delhi Diaries: She welcomes me home…..
Step off the plane and the aroma of Delhi hits you. A stroll along the now famously hideous airport carpet, luggage out in record time, skip through duty free, a taxi ride in a cab that should have… Source: Delhi Diaries: She welcomes me home…..
Memsahib’s Dad Visits India, aged 80 – Part 3
Jodhpur Part one: And some days it’s better to do nothing at all, in fact it’s something I always recommend for any one traveling around India, yes there is a lot to see, but it’s also quite overwhelming, no point in pushing oneself to the point of exhaustion. So, find somewhere off beat, grab a…
Memsahib’s dad visits India – Part 2
In which we head to Jaipur. I am usually an advocate of longer stays in a destination, get out there, discover it, tailor it to more than the sights it is famous for. Going to Jaipur and only seeing the fort and palace, is like going to London and just seeing Big Ben and the…
Memsahib’s Dad visits India – Part 1
Introduction: A brief background to this Memsahibs dad ‘series’ is that I have been specialising in travel to India since 1997. I moved here in 2006 and yet my parents never visited me, it just wasn’t mum’s idea of a place she wanted to see. Sadly she died 3 years ago, just before Christmas and…
Delhi Diaries: Rules of the road – Delhi style
Well it’s taken six months after being reunited to finally get her back into road worthy condition but we made it! The Babe and I taking Delhi by storm. Of course my driving technique needs t… Source: Delhi Diaries: Rules of the road – Delhi style
Gatiman Express Train Scam – watch out.
Trying to enter Delhi train station, “No madam, you must go to that entrance.” Half asleep I complied. At that entrance, official looking man in suit, “Madam, tickets please.” I complied. “Madam, Bhopal Shatabdi, 10 hr delay, fog. New train, Gatiman Express, on time. From Old Delhi. You have credit card?” At “credit card” I…
Snapshot – India in a nutshell
A snapshot on India: Sitting in Manchester Airport, the man next to me asks where I am going and grimaces when I say Delhi. The second sentence out of his mouth is, “My wife won’t go there, there is too much poverty.” I reply in all innocence, “Oh, have you been?” He replies, with a…
Snapshots – Shopping in Delhi
Forget Trump, forget Brexit, forget the fact that Delhi govt purchased a snow plough, forget racism against cows – I went into a well known store in Khan Market looking for a present for my fairy godmother who likes all things “fabulous.” Spotted a fancy silver and white mug and thought it would be a…
The People of India Project: Darby Raju
A couple of nights ago, I went to meet a friend I hadn’t seen for three months, we had lots to catch up on, and quite a lot to celebrate. Our drink of choice was sparkling wine, Indian sparkling wine, pink and chilled and crisp, it hit the spot perfectly. Indian wines have been coming…
Snapshots: Cremations in Varanasi
A man, wrapped in a white shroud, his head freshly shaved, sits mournfully and watches a burning pyre. A bamboo ladder, supporting another body, it’s shape visible under an orange shroud, makes its way to its final immersion in Mother Ganges. A few steps away, flames lick at another pyre, a body visible, a family…
Snapshots – Cochin
A snapshot – Cochin: It’s rare on a work trip that I get time to myself, given that I have to assess all aspects of hotels and insist on trying every experience before I either ditch or develop it. So it came as a pleasant surprise when I had a couple of hours free in…
4 Hot New Hotels, Tamil Nadu Finally Comes Of Age.
I have been traveling to Tamil Nadu since 1997, it is a fascinating destination, full of temples and Dravidian influences but it has always been a tough destination to sell for a couple of reasons. The first is that many people just focus on the temples, let’s face it, you can hardly move in the…
The changing face of travel.
I was recently re watching one of my favourite films, The One Hundred Foot Journey. Each time I watch it, a sentence spoken, usually by Om Puri, who I think is fabulous, triggers a thought. This time it was a scene when his family were trying to prevent him from purchasing the closed down restaurant…
Snapshot: The Imperial, Impervious, Kathi Roll
From humble beginnings in Imperial India to The Imperial, India – the kathi roll has traveled far and transcended generations, states, and castes. Having ordered one at The Imperial Hotel in Delhi recently, which did strike me as a little preposterous, they are street food after all, I figured I should try one right back…
The People of India – Victor Dey
I first met Victor in 2000 just after he and his wife Jini had opened up their home, in a coffee plantation, to guests. They remain some of the most charming people I have met in my 18 years in India and are naturals when it comes to hospitality. I had the pleasure of meeting his…
Haven’t we seen this somewhere before?
There are monuments in India which have been copied in other destinations but did you know that there are also copycat monuments actually in the same destinations as the originals? In my explorations over the last 12 months, I have found two examples of monuments which have been copied and one entire city! They are…
A photo tour of Kolkata
Calcutta has to be one of my favourite cities in India. Of course it is a busy bustling place, all of India’s cities are but there is a gentleness to it. I have always said, it is a city with the heart of a village. The gentle atmosphere and verdant nature reminds me of Kerala,…
The Alternative Golden Triangle – Daring to be Different!
It’s no secret that two of my pet hates are The Taj Mahal and the lack of imagination of much of the travel industry. Anything beyond the Golden Triangle seems to be beyond most people. However, whilst it is logical and does make sense, India is so much more. For the sake of this post, I…
Lucknow,The Ugly Duckling Became a Swan
I first visited Lucknow in 1999 and have no fond memories of the place. Any vague flashbacks which do remain are of a dirty, broken city with one dank, dark hotel, scruffy monuments, litter; you get the picture. It was , as far as I remember a depressing city. In its entirety it should have…
India and a Rather Unusual Wedding Custom
I am not sure entirely, or really even partially, at what point I fell in love with India. I am still not sure I can put a finger on exactly why I did either. It is a place where I do feel more at home than anywhere else, which is strange as I have…
Villages, where the true heart of India lies.
One can never fail but to be humbled by the hospitality of India’s rural population. Having recently been in Jaisalmer, exploring and inventing new sightsseeing options, I had one morning, got up at 0600 to drag myself around several monuments in 38C, before the day truly heated up. Chuntering incessantly about the heat, huffing and puffing…
People of India – Priyanka Devi Gupta
Priyanka has been practicing Sivanandas’ Hatha Yoga since she was 17. She spent months in ashrams teaching and assisting, yet wanted to deepen her awareness and understanding of the breath and embarked on a journey of Vipassana meditation. She has continued to explore other forms such as Acro Yoga, Kundalini, Jivamukti, Anusara, Partner and Yin Yoga….
People of India – About
Several years ago, I started to blog about the people of India, they are, for me, what makes this country so extra ordinary. I have never encountered such resilience and resourcefulness (aka jugaad) as I have from the people who truly belong to this country. From innovators to creators, artists to authors, tuk tuk drivers…
People of India – Sumant Batra
A lawyer of international repute, social commentator, thought leader and creative innovator, Sumant is a many-faceted person with accomplishments in diverse spheres. He romances with life, lives his dreams and thinks through his heart. A cultural champion, museum owner, collector and writer, Sumant Batra is the founder and architect of a number of innovative creative…
GWOC – Something about which I know nothing
On my flight to Manchester last week on Etihad, I read an excellent article by Jamie Lafferty about the Great Wall of China. Excellent not only because it was well written but I also enjoyed the slightly humorous no nonsense style, akin perhaps to my own. It is rarely that I read travel articles, which…
Snapshots: Slimming Clubs Yorkshire Style
It would seem that a compulsory part of living back ‘Up north’ is to join a fat club, must be something to do with the traditional diet of pies and fish and chips. Now this has more benefits than just the weight loss though I am proud to say that I have so far lost 3.5 kgs, nothing to do with stress…
India, An Epicurean’s Delight – mostly.
‘’You can’t eat a mango politely, not if you really want to savour it.’’ This was one of my first lessons in Indian cuisine, from my host, a culinary guru as we sat slurping and sucking as mango juice ran down our arms and landed on the table. I had arrived in India for a…
Encounters with locals – Yorkshire style
Conversations from Yorkshire:. Picture the scenario. A beautiful, sunny autumnal morning, out riding one of my favourite horses in the stunning Yorkshire countryside. Said horse having observed the field full of cows for several minutes and kept a beedy eye on them all the way down the hill, decided to freak out on drawing parallel….
Matho Gompa Oracle Festival, Ladakh
“Follow that king!” I cried, with a wry grin, as I jumped into the car and pointed to the jeep in front. The king in question was Raja Jigmed W Namgyal, the 38th generational descendant of the Namgyal Royal Dynasty of Ladakh and the reason I was on this trip. Our destination was Matho Gompa…
An Excerpt from my first novel, Girl India.
‘AAG! Memsahib, Aag lagi hai! Aag, aag, aag!’ My peace was shattered. I was sitting on the balcony of the lodge with my afternoon cake and chai and the first Sunday Times I had seen in months, two weeks out of date but, never the less, it was a treat. It was a rare day…
A Rare Hotel Review, The Four Seasons, Mumbai
Whisked seamlessly in a seven series BMW from the airport to the Four Seasons Hotel, Mumbai, my reintroduction to the Maximum City as it has endlessly been called, after seven years away. My companion was only used to the good life, and whilst I love scruffing around in India, as I call it, tuk tuks,…
When the cows come home, an alternative safari, Kanha National Park, India.
I do appreciate that when people come on a safari to India, they want to see tiger and yes, to see a tiger in the wild is a magnificent experience and one to be cherished. I used to have a few issues with this. A few years ago, in 2007 to be precise, I ran…
Encounters with locals – Delhi’s Longest Serving Taxi Driver
The Longest Serving Taxi Driver in Delhi? Last night, rather later and not quite as sober as anticipated, I asked the establishment of my choice to order a taxi for me. Being quite a swanky place I was delighted when a battered, old, original black and yellow ambassador turned up. But this was no ordinary…
Delhi Diaries 7th September – The Old Fashioned Salon
This weekend I experienced two sides to Delhi that were at completely opposite ends of the spectrum. The first was a beauty parlour and the second was volunteering for a waste management company (literally collecting litter) at a ladies only marathon. Like I said, poles apart. As we have by now established, when it comes…
Travels in India, dress sense, east vs west
There really is nothing quite so elegant as an Indian lady in a sari. I don’t think any other national dress can even begin to compete and what is wonderful is that they are still widely worn throughout the country. The colours are so vibrant, reds, oranges, turquoise to name hardly any (there is no…
Delhi Diaries: The Value of a Perfectly Round Roti
This week, I went out discovering Delhi, as I do. One of my visits was to the Bangla Sahib Gurudwara, perhaps the most famous Gurudwara in India, outside of Amritsar. Here they also feed thousands of people every single day, and so after doing the usual rounds, I ventured into the kitchen which is run…
Delhi Diaries: 2nd August ’15
Life starts to settle down and routines start to form. I have time to venture further and I am intrigued to discover what changes have happened since I have been away, for sure, Delhi is still the same old crazy place, but it would appear that it is attempting a new level of sophistication –…
India and the art of bargaining…..
I love Om Puri. Actually, I hate that first sentence, it is so easy to say love and hate these days without really meaning it. How can I love him? I don’t even know him, but, I do love the characters he plays in films. I recently rewatched The 100 Foot Journey. I saw it…
The Mistress that is India
India can’t be instantly appreciated, nor can she be rushed. She will reveal herself in her own time, she will move at her own pace. You can’t demand from her nor hurry her along. India is magical, baffling, confusing and unfathomable and frustrating. She is captivating and beguiling, fascinating, awe inspiring but most of all,…
Five things to do in Jaipur that don’t involve a palace or fort.
1. Raj Mandir – This has got to be one of the quirkiest cinemas in the world. 70% of tickets sold are just for people wanting to go in and look at the interiors. The showings are for Bollywood movies, and don’t worry if you don’t speak Hindi, it’s as fun to watch the people…