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  • Author: Philippa Kaye

Top Five Safari Lodges in India

My list of top five lodges focuses on lodges which are either owner managed or managed by people who are not only keen wildlifers but also serious conservationists, follow eco tourism practices and have a passion for preserving India’s wildlife. They also, not coincidentally happen to be in my favourite parks. 1. Reni Pani Jungle Lodge,…

Delhi Diaries: About Kalpana

“But you have to get a maid, you can’t survive without one!” This was the refrain I heard many times on moving to Delhi last time and one which I realised was very, very true. I was promptly found Flopsy by my landlady who was ultimately usurped by Kalpana –  for that debacle,read  https://memsahibinindia.wordpress.com/2013/11/15/dealing-with-house-staff-part-2-flips-flops-at-50-paces/ and that’s who…

Food in India, A Carnivores Delight?

One perception of India is that it is a mainly vegetarian country.  This is true to a certain extent. Many people are pure vegetarian, some extend this to not including cheese or eggs – you should see the scramble for eggless cake recipes (no pun intended). Hindu’s don’t eat beef, Muslims don’t eat pork, and Jains…

The Indian Train Experience

Some people, in fact many people, have the notion that train travel in India is romantic. It is not. Interesting, entertaining, and an excellent way of witnessing culture up close and personal, yes, but romantic, no.  Basic is a word that springs to mind. If cleanliness is important, then it is best to find another…

In India, We Speak Like This Only

Another day another train.  The Dehradun Shatabdi this time and an a/c chair car for INR580.00 or £5.80 for a comfortable 5 hour journey. Not only is this journey comfortable, you are provided , within the price of your ticket, with a bottle of water, newspaper, tea, breakfast (veg or non-veg) and more tea. Not…

Cocktails and Campfires

There is something wonderful about sitting out around a campfire.  I know all you African/Indian Safari diehards have been experiencing this for years, but it is something that, living in the UK, we really don’t get to experience very often. For one main reason.  The weather. Now, we are renowned on our island for discussing…

Escape to Manali, soak in the paintings at Roerich Gallery in Raison and later tuck into roast chicken and chips.

‘’Can this this really be India?’’ I wonder as I sit on the terrace of the most charming stone and timber built cottage, gazing out over immaculate and spacious gardens all overlooked by deodar-clad, forested hillsides?  The only sounds are of the River Beas churning and gurgling by, the birds flitting between the branches of…

People of India – Rajah Bannerjee, Tea Planter

India is full of eccentric characters spanning from the mildly to the massively.  Rajah Bannerjee falls into this bracket, though I won’t say where. Inspirational, energetic, entrepreneurial, fascinating and a delight to spend time with.  He is a fifth generation tea planter at Makaibari Tea Estate near Kurseong, the first purely organic tea plantation in…

Indian Chai and English Tea

Sitting ‘atop a hill’ in the foothills of the Himalaya, watching the most incredible sunset, not a soul around, the problems of the world left far behind, could life get much better? Well yes, as it happens. When I say ‘not a soul’ there was one, the local sadhu. He had watched me climb the…