A cheeky little upgrade from Delhi to Cochin was a lovely welcome back, particularly after the hellish transit procedure at Delhi Airport. Be warned if on connnecting flights. After that the day just got better and better. My first south Indian breakfast was on board and then on arrival in Cochin I was whisked off…
Celebrating 25 years in India
This is it. My 25th year in India. I had no idea on that first trip, just where the journey would take me. People say to me, “Come on, 25 years, haven’t you seen it all?” And the answer, quite simply, is no, no where near. I’ve tried, goodness knows I’ve tried, but you see,…
The Art Of Bespoke Travel
“If you havent seen it, you can’t sell it.” This was the philosophy that was told to me when I first started in the travel industry. To see it is not just to know it, but it’s also to experience it, to feel it. Product knowledge is vital, particularly when you really want to feature…
Cheetahs are reintroduced to India but what about the indigenous people of Kuno Palpur?
There’s been a lot of talk over the last couple of years amongst a niche section of society, this is a section however, that whilst relatively small, crosses all boundaries of age and sex, it is a broad cross section of people bound by a common passion, and that passion is the wildlife of India….
India: Knowing a Little Bit About a Lot Goes a Long Way
Face book today reminded me of this post below. It made me think. I started specialising in India as a destination in 1998. We had a policy; if you hadn’t seen it, you couldn’t sell it. I would travel to India, Sri Lanka, Bhutan and Nepal 2-3 times a year to ‘learn’ the destination in…
Has tourism failed the camels which made Pushkar Camel Fair a Globally Recognised tourist event?
It has become a scene as synonymous with India as the Taj Mahal, thousands of Raika camel traders with their immaculate white dhotis and brilliant and intricately tied red turbans, squatting, drinking chai amidst their brilliantly festooned camels. ‘’Every year, some 30,000 camels descend on Pushkar, a small town in the state of Rajasthan, in…
WTM RESPONSIBLE TOURISM AWARDS INDIA LEADS THE WAY – 17 WINNERS REVEALED
India was the standout destination at this year’s awards, winning 17 accolades and emerging as a “leading country for responsible tourism.” An international panel of judges came together remotely to determine the top achievers. First launched in 2004, the awards recognise and reward businesses, destinations and operations contributing to a more sustainable and tourism industry….
Three hotels in Gujarat which aren’t quite what you’d expect.
Think of Gujarat and what comes to mind? The first thing every inbound agent will say is that you can’t drink, not strictly true but yes, it can be off-putting to those who enjoy a drink or two with dinner. But once that hurdle has been overcome, what are the words that spring to mind…
India’s Top 13 Street Foods As Voted By Its Most Intrepid Travellers
It all started with a plain dosa: one of those giant crisp pancakes made with fermented rice and lentil batter. It was 1998 and I was on my very first trip to India; there weren’t many places to stop and refuel on long, gruelling drives, but our driver knew the best places for a great…
The Murder and the Lion – Wildlife Tales from Gujarat
We had heard there was a murder and were invited to investigate. Anyone who has watched any crime drama wants to get involved right? In this instance a murder could mean a double murder because for there to be a murder chances are that there had been a death that could have been a murder…
My Top Five Books Tiger Centric Books – A great and diverse small collection for International Tiger Day 2020
It’s International Tiger Day, social media will be flooded with images of this truly magnificent animal, hopefully also praise for the forest guards who spend their lives protecting them, the conservation groups who also do their utmost to raise awareness to protect this endangered species, and the lodge owners who provide wonderful accommodation for you…
Discovering India Differently: Jodhpur
THINK JODHPUR and quite rightly the image of Mehrangarh Fort pops in to your mind. It is undoubtedly magnificent, in my opinion, the most impressive of all the forts in Rajasthan (on the main circuit) and one monument that I encourage a visit to. It is excellently curated and well maintained, the jewel in…
My Original Top 4 Off Beat Hotels for Slow Travel
Ever since I first visited India in 1997, I’ve had a passion for what’s different, away from the mainstream destinations but places where there is the opportunity to discover the real India, away from the chaos and mayhem. Where you have time to peel back the layers of a destination, they are invariably hosted by…
Discovering Goa Differently
Discovering Goa Differently I’ve never been a beach person, truth is, I was once voted worse than a man to take shopping and worse than a child to take to the beach, that was 25 years ago, nothing has changed. It came as quite a surprise therefore that Goa was my choice of destination for…
Have Bucket Lists Destroyed The Art of Travel?
Have Bucket Lists Destroyed the Art of Travel? Travel: To go from one place to another, typically over a distance of some length. Journey: Originally a literal unit of time and travel, has become a metaphor for the experience of living life with all its ups and downs. I recently read the Kashmir Shawl by Rosie Thomas and it reminded…
Kaziranga, Assam, National Park and UNESCO Site
OK, I am certainly not in the top many thousands of people who have visited and after just 4 nights/5 days, I can hardly call myself an expert but, having being totally immersed in India as my specialist subject for the last 20 years, and having just visited Assam, I realised just how little I…
Desperately seeking satisfaction, could Gujarat deliver?
A few months ago I developed a mild obsession, I don’t know where it came from, it was certainly out of the blue, but it wouldn’t go away, it just kept niggling away at me. Then, one day, I received an invite. Do you believe in synchronicity? The bestower of the invite, without me prompting,…
Not the bloody Taj Mahal!
I am being controversial but honest, the Taj Mahal? It’s not all that. There you go, I have finally not only said it aloud, but put it in print and out there on the worldwideweb for all to see. I have had to visit it many times (forced by my career choice) but this ‘familiarity’…
From Mundane to Magical in Three Simple Words…..
India, where one must always expect the unexpected. A fact I remind myself of daily but one which she reminds me of hourly. I was traveling recently in Gujarat and was told that our next stop would be a museum. I have experienced countless museums in India. Many, even in mainstream destinations, are pretty woeful,…
Driving Across India: Realising a life long dream.
The dream started when, living in Delhi, I decided to buy a car. An expat living in India, who’s been selling holidays from the days when these were the only cars that were available (well apart from Fiats and really, there’s no comparison) were a/c or non a/c Ambassadors, it just had to be one…
Delhi Belly, Truth or Myth?
I’ve just been following a thread on FB. One person asked how to avoid Delhi Belly and the long and short of the barrage of ensuing responses was that you can’t. It is inevitable that at some point in a trip, perhaps more than once, you will get it. Now I’m someone who, having gradually…
Weather in India, Best Time to Travel and When to Avoid where.
India is vast with many different weather patterns and truly is a year round destination. The below is a quick guide to the best time to travel to which regions. Best time to travel to India Rajasthan A desert kingdom, temperatures soar in Rajasthan during the summer months of April to June, with things cooling…
An Interview With India’s Centre for Soft Power, Why Tourism Needs to Move Beyond The Taj Mahal.
India’s Tourism needs to move beyond the Taj Mahal Sudarshan Ramabadran March 25, 2019 An economic impact report (2018) by the World Travel & Tourism Council (WTTC) has said that India is expected to establish itself as the third largest travel and tourism economy by 2028 in terms of direct and total GDP and that…
Beyond Delhi, India’s International Airports and where they lead to!
Most people consider Delhi to be the main entry and exit point to the wonderful country that is India and the splendours which abound therein. It therefore stands to reason that news of the cholking smog plaguing Delhi is bound to be detrimental to the tourism industry. However, there are plenty of other international entry…
The Raika Journey Begins
They call it serendipity. I’d been struggling with a brutal rash for three days, from my scalp down to the soles of my feet. This is something that never happens to me, I’m not even sure I had nappy rash as a baby! I’d tried creams and antihistamines to no avail, I’d been unable to…
Getting To Grips With The Moghuls
You visit India, you get dragged around the monuments and are given a history lesson at each one. Its baffling and confusing and for me, well 21 years in and I still can’t remember who built what and why. So here you go, Mughal Monuments Made Simple: Who were the Mughal Emperors and when did…
Solo Female Travel, the kindness of strangers and using common sense.
There’s been a lot written about this over recent years, I’ve read some articles, disregarded others and didn’t honestly pay that much attention to it. Foolishly perhaps, given the growth in this as a ‘business.’ Then, a couple of years ago, someone who had written many articles on the subject contacted me for an interview…
Why India?
It’s a fact that most people who think of travelling to India don’t know much about it. They only know what they have heard about – which I understand is a ridiculous statement to make, but hear me out. People have heard of certain destinations and some monuments and these are what they ask for…
Discovering Destinations Differently: Jaipur
Back when I was a tour operator in London, in the early 2000’s, we decided to make Jaipur a three night destination, we saw the need for people to slow travel down and this was a destination that offered a lot. Since then I’ve spent two years living in Jaipur and have worked with various…
Discovering a different Jaisalmer
Monuments provide the photos but to truly experience this country one must venture to where it’s true heart lies which is with its rural population.
Varanasi Part 2 in which it got a whole lot worse, before it got great!
The writers’ conference which I had enjoyed immensely had come to an end. The only bit I had hated was the hotel, The Ramada, it was my second stay in a Ramada hotel, and I can assure you, it will be my last. However, in terms of the city, we had been shown the bits…
Jaipur Has Cleaned up it’s Act – Well Done INDIA
A shift is taking place. For years nothing happened except a worsening of a bad situation. I had started to wonder if there was any hope. I love India and have pledged the last 20 years of my life to promoting it far and wide but it was almost too much for me to bear….
Indian Experiences Launches New Website
After weeks of grafting behind the scenes, we are delighted to announce the new look Indian Experiences website! I’m even more delighted to have a brilliant team on board this “first of its kind,” consultancy to the Indian Travel Trade. Do check out the list of services we offer to both new companies wanting to…
Landour, The Land That Time Forgot
Impossibly tight U-bends, an impossibly, narrow, steep road, up and up and round and round, reverse a bit, try that corner again, and again, up and off, out of the overcrowded mayhem of Mussoorie, to the tranquillity of Landour, a mere 5kms away in distance but a world away, in time and temperament. Landour, is…
Varanasi, Benares, Banaras or Kashi, regardless its not an easy destination.
Varanasi will chew you up and spit you out and won’t be concerned about the consequences, not even one iota. For through tourists flock there in their masses, to visit the world’s oldest living city, and to absorb, as if by osmosis, some of India’s famed spirituality; as Tahir Shah so succinctly put it, ‘Enlightenment…
Top Tips for Traveling to India
Part 01 – Planning your trip. Think about why you really want to visit India and what interests you. It is very easy to follow a cliched program in India, following the masses just because everybody does it. If it is a first time, then most people want to see the Taj Mahal and therefore…
Landing up in Landour
“A month long course!” They exclaimed, “but why go all the way to Landour, why not do it in Delhi?” Hmm, well let’s see shall we…….. In Delhi the temps are currently 39C, in Landour it’s 18C. In Delhi one is surrounded by buildings, here, the hills. In Delhi the air is of dubious quality,…
He is 80 and he survived his first trip to India – Dad’s trip, the dids’ and the did nots.
So dad leaves tonight after a long three weeks which have absolutely flown by. He is currently tucked up in bed with a cup of tea and the Far Pavillions, a book which it transpires, is also a three week journey. My aim was to showcase my world to him, my India, the place I…
The Sun Sets over the Sun Temple, in more ways than one
Today India made my heart bleed. The Sun Temple in Konark is my favourite monument in India. I have wonderful memories of my first visit almost 10 years ago; an incredible spectacle looming up in the middle of nowhere. One man selling Patachitra, etched palm leaves, trees lined the streets and entry into a monument…
He is 80 and he survived his first trip to India – Dad’s trip, the dids’ and the did nots.
So dad leaves tonight after a long three weeks which have absolutely flown by. He is currently tucked up in bed with a cup of tea and the Far Pavillions, a book which it transpires, is also a three week journey. My aim was to showcase my world to him, my India, the place I…
Memsahib’s Dad in India, Part 7, The Beauty of Kanha
The morning sun rises and the mists disperse, shoulders hunched against the cold begin to straighten and chins emerge from their muffle of scarves. Dust motes dance & tease in celebration, captured within the shafts of sunlight breaking the canopy of the trees, but will the emerging forest reveal it’s rich bounty? The afternoon safari…
You’re Never Too Old! Memsahib’s Dad Visits India aged 80 – Part 6.
Udaipur Part 1: When passion meets tourism, a story teller emerges. You may have noticed dad is a classic car buff and this trip has partly been about him seeing various private collections. Yesterday we arrived in Udaipur and thanks to Dushyant Singh Rathore we were able to visit his private collection at Fateh Bagh…
Memsahib’s Dad Visits India, aged 80 – Part 5.
It’s never too late! Travels around India with my octogenarian dad. Dungarpur was meant to be all for dad, the car collection here was the ‘must’ and the bar is truly any petrol head’s delight. But, from cars to kachories to a museum curation, quirks and the karma sutra, it turned out to be a…
Memsahib’s dad visits India, aged 80 – Part 4.
I am not sure if two years in a row makes something an annual event, but it would be rather nice to think so. Christmas 2015 at Devshree was all about lovely walks, exploring the fort, lazy lunches, chilling out on charpois after a farm cooked lunch (and discovering the delights of cow s**t bread…
Memsahib’s Dad Visits India, aged 80 – Part 3
Jodhpur Part one: And some days it’s better to do nothing at all, in fact it’s something I always recommend for any one traveling around India, yes there is a lot to see, but it’s also quite overwhelming, no point in pushing oneself to the point of exhaustion. So, find somewhere off beat, grab a…
Memsahib’s dad visits India – Part 2
In which we head to Jaipur. I am usually an advocate of longer stays in a destination, get out there, discover it, tailor it to more than the sights it is famous for. Going to Jaipur and only seeing the fort and palace, is like going to London and just seeing Big Ben and the…
Memsahib’s Dad visits India – Part 1
Introduction: A brief background to this Memsahibs dad ‘series’ is that I have been specialising in travel to India since 1997. I moved here in 2006 and yet my parents never visited me, it just wasn’t mum’s idea of a place she wanted to see. Sadly she died 3 years ago, just before Christmas and…
Gatiman Express Train Scam – watch out.
Trying to enter Delhi train station, “No madam, you must go to that entrance.” Half asleep I complied. At that entrance, official looking man in suit, “Madam, tickets please.” I complied. “Madam, Bhopal Shatabdi, 10 hr delay, fog. New train, Gatiman Express, on time. From Old Delhi. You have credit card?” At “credit card” I…