How do you cope, in these days of gross over tourism, with promoting fabulous new destinations that you discover and want to shout to the world about, but don’t want to see go the same way? I now see destinations I visited some 20-25 years ago which were extraordinary and my heart bleeds at what…
Musings
Life in India is extraordinary and exhausting, fascinating and unfathomable but always thought provoking. Simple daily tasks that we, from 'first world countries' take for granted for being just that, can become expeditions in India. The most mundane activity can cause endless causes for frustration or amusement. Life in India has tested me, more than occasionally, but amused me endlessly, perhaps that's just me, but my musings are where I record these, fondly.
Chicken Tikka Masala? There’s no such thing…
This week we mourn the sad passing of Ali Ahmed Aslam of Glasgow’s inimitable Shish Mahal, and founder of Britains National Dish, chicken tikka masala, so I thought it an opportune moment to share this article originally written in 2020. Two things have happened in the last couple of days to prompt this article. The…
The Mistress That Is India
India can’t be instantly appreciated, nor can she be rushed. She will reveal herself in her own time, she will move at her own pace. You can’t demand from her nor hurry her along. India is magical, baffling, confusing and unfathomable and frustrating. She is captivating and beguiling, fascinating, awe inspiring but most of…
Vindaloo,Who Knew?
This is, or should I say was, a pork vindaloo. I kind of forgot to take the before picture. It was rather tasty. Now, the mere mention of a vindaloo in the UK gives connotations of toilet rolls being placed in fridges and lager louts at the end of the Westgate run, a pub crawl…
The World’s Tallest, Highest, wettest, most buoyant, gruesome and most bizarre, only in India!
Yesterday there was an article in the Guardian, bakers and chefs in the southern state of Kerala had baked what they said was the world’s longest cake at (approx.) 6.5kms, I suppose the actual length depends on how many hungry people there wer around! But it got me thinking, where in the world can you…
Five Things You Never Knew You Needed to Know About Rhubarb
It’s cold, even by normal Yorkshire standards. Snow is on the ground and for several days temperatures hover around 0C, to which phone apps add comments such as ‘feels like -5C, which aren’t terribly helpful. Weather like this means a couple of things. The first is quite obvious, yes, it’s winter in Yorkshire, fortunately we…
The Mysteries of Mountains
Ghostly, ethereal Layer upon interwoven layer of mountains Shrouded in a gossamer mist Haunting, mysterious. Standing proud or hunched? Kind or cruel? Smugglers, nomads, shepherds, Centuries of stories Love? Maybe But bravery, grief, hardship, sorrow then death Hidden in their rugged and steadfast embrace. The view, this view induces gazing Wistful Pondering The mysteries of…
A Tribute to the Dogs Who Love Us Warts and All
As Brits we are a nation of dog lovers, we are renowned for it. This has only increased throughout lockdown, I am sure that there are stats on this, but just from the numbers of people walking puppies that we see out daily these days, my guess is that a lot of people have become…
Have Bucket Lists Destroyed The Art of Travel?
Have Bucket Lists Destroyed the Art of Travel? Travel: To go from one place to another, typically over a distance of some length. Journey: Originally a literal unit of time and travel, has become a metaphor for the experience of living life with all its ups and downs. I recently read the Kashmir Shawl by Rosie Thomas and it reminded…
The Rasoi on Wheels, feeding the homeless of Delhi
I wanted to share some positivity and an experience I had this morning. A few months ago, whilst researching things to do in Delhi, we came across Rasoi on Wheels. Intrigued by what we had read, we contacted them and arranged a meeting and we’re, quite frankly, blown away. The calm demeanour of Atul Kapur…
Olfactory India. Can the character of a city be determined by its’ aroma?
OK, the title may cause some sniggers. ‘’OMG, India stinks!’’ declare all the people who have never been there, the same ones who are convinced that all you will be confronted with are an overwhelming wave of poverty and will be struck down imminently, never to recover, with Delhi Belly as soon as one foot…
The Indian Train Experience
Some people, in fact many people, have the notion that train travel in India is romantic. It is not. Interesting, entertaining, and an excellent way of witnessing culture up close and personal, yes, but romantic, no. Basic is a word that springs to mind. If cleanliness is important, then it is best to find another…
World Tourism Day 2020
What’s in a smile? I’ve been writing content for a new travel website for a client, somewhat optimistic perhaps, but he’s determined to be prepared. In doing so, I was flicking through past content for other websites I’ve written seeking inspiration; “Infectious smiles,” was a phrase I came across and smiled to myself, and thought,…
Online Dating During Covid – Part 01
Several years ago, sixteen to be precise, I was encouraged to start internet dating, by my chiropracter of all people. Baffled as to why I was still single at the grand old age of 34, he was determined to heal my broken heart as well as my self inflicted, broken body. I turned up one…
MP & UP tourism going head to head?
In a destination competition between MP and UP for me, without even having to think, the outright winner would be MP. And yet, I am one for giving the underdog a chance. Let’s face it where UP lacks in numbers of monuments, it more than makes up for in fame and fortune. It has THE…
Not the bloody Taj Mahal!
I am being controversial but honest, the Taj Mahal? It’s not all that. There you go, I have finally not only said it aloud, but put it in print and out there on the worldwideweb for all to see. I have had to visit it many times (forced by my career choice) but this ‘familiarity’…
If we cant visit India then she must come to us 2: 12 More Movies about this extraordinary country.
Hello hello hello, Following the sucess of part one of this series (of 2) I couldn’t not post all the wonderful recommendations that were sent to me by all gang over on FB. So here we have it, part two of, “If we can’t visit India, she must come to us,’ 12 More movies about…
From Mundane to Magical in Three Simple Words…..
India, where one must always expect the unexpected. A fact I remind myself of daily but one which she reminds me of hourly. I was traveling recently in Gujarat and was told that our next stop would be a museum. I have experienced countless museums in India. Many, even in mainstream destinations, are pretty woeful,…
If We Can’t Visit India, She Must Come To Us -13 Films About This Extraordinary Country
The man at customs on my most recent trip to India (and the friendliest customs man I’ve ever met) asked me if I liked India, I replied in the affirmative and asked him why he should ask me. His reply, ‘This is your 39th visit since 2007.’ My reponse, ‘Well, I guess that answers your…
Driving Across India: Realising a life long dream.
The dream started when, living in Delhi, I decided to buy a car. An expat living in India, who’s been selling holidays from the days when these were the only cars that were available (well apart from Fiats and really, there’s no comparison) were a/c or non a/c Ambassadors, it just had to be one…
Storytelling East vs West, A Cathartic Process or Escapism?
Sometime in 2015/6 I recently went to a reading by famous Indian play write, Girish Karnad who started his performance by saying something that in all my years, I didn’t know about India; ‘In the west it is the audience who goes through the cathartic process of a story; whether it is a play or…
Golden and Rhubarb, the Triangles in my Life.
My life seems to be determined by triangles. I spent years living on one vertex of what is probably the most famous triangle in the world, well, apart from the Bermuda one, but then, if I was there I probably wouldn’t be alive, so let’s say, the most liveable triangle in the world, The Golden…
Shedding The Outer Goddess
It’s not often I go on for the woe is me, me me me, inner peace and finding myself and all that malarkey but right now, facts need to be faced. I arrived back in India three years ago having kicked a three-year illness in the ass. This background is not asking for sympathy, merely providing perspective….
The Moment It All Began – Tamil Nadu
Back in 1998 I made my first trip to India. I had been asked by three investors to set up a travel company for them, they had decided on south India and I was despatched to recce with the aim of determining the product, then, writing the brochure and launching the company. The initial plan…
Why India?
It’s a fact that most people who think of travelling to India don’t know much about it. They only know what they have heard about – which I understand is a ridiculous statement to make, but hear me out. People have heard of certain destinations and some monuments and these are what they ask for…
Let me tell you a secret about how I travel
Pre social media, there were dinner party destinations. The places people travelled to seemingly just so that they could drop the name at the next dinner party. 15 years ago, people would call and tell me they wanted to go to Bhutan, when I asked why, they were stumped. Everyone was talking about this last…
Lost in the jungle
Anyone who knows me will know that I have no sense of direction what-so-ever, and as I work in the travel industry, the irony is not lost on me. At a push, I could get lost in my own house, I certainly never turn the right way first time around on coming out of a…
India, Perception vs Reality
Facebook, as it does, just threw up a post from two years ago. It was a post which at the time, got a lot of response from my friends and colleagues. It was a post which came about as a result of a casual chat with a fellow passenger on a flight to Abu Dhabi….
What I regained from a digital detox
I had been offered the privilege of spending two weeks in a Naturopathy Detox Spa. I needed it desperately for mind and body, yet even so, I sent frantic messages before accepting, will there be WiFi? You see the state of my mind? It’s all we seem bothered about these days. To be fair, it…
Detox Day Three, What The Brochure Never Tells You.
Could a detox spa treatment be akin to giving birth? As in, you forget how bad it was the first time until you are in the midst of it again. To what am I referring? What is known, by those in the know, as Day Three Syndrome. The caffeine, booze and chocolate/crisp/bacon buttie stocks in…
Global Storming
A picture clicked in colour. The harsh steel grey of the buildings Blend in with an angry sky. Storms are devastating the world we live in A world we have created Dominated by selfishness and greed. The bounteous nature we have destroyed. When will we realise that mother nature speaks. Her anger evident in her…
The Poop Survival Plan
The last 2 Christmases, I have been fortunate enough to spend at Devshree in Rajasthan. On one of these occasions we ventured down to the farm for a typical lunch cooked by the villages, the way and they cook for themselves. Okay, we had a fully set table under the trees and then cushioned charpois…
From Runswick Bay to Rishikesh – Men Shouldn’t Skip
Boys can’t skip. This is a well-known fact, discovered by me at an early age but one which has recently been shattered and I have now had to amend this statement to ‘men really shouldn’t skip.’ Let me explain.
Smokescreen, Diwali, a Poem
Smokescreen Diwali, the festival of light, Diwali, victory over evil Diwali the triumph of light over darkness and hope My hope The re-emergence from illness, incarceration in the wrong place, the wrong body, the wrong mind My thoughts; a new beginning And yet, my arrival, A day late. A day post Diwali and Delhi, a…
And On the 70th Indian Independence Day…
At a talk I was asked to give recently about my 20 years in India, someone asked me what was the best thing I had witnessed and what was it that kept me here. Without hesitation I replied, ‘The people.’ Despite on my first couple of visits, having been embarrassed about being British and the…
Olfactory India. Can the character of a city be determined by its’ aroma?
Source: Olfactory India. Can the character of a city be determined by its’ aroma?
Meetings, Dreams & Cycles of Life.
Around 13 years ago, over breakfast at the Malabar House Hotel in Cochin I was introduced to one of the most extraordinary, fascinating and yet unassuming men it has ever been my privilege to meet, Anderson Bakewell. He had just spent three years living like a local in Mandvi, Gujarat, building a 120ft sailing dhow,…
Delhi Diaries: She welcomes me home…..
Step off the plane and the aroma of Delhi hits you. A stroll along the now famously hideous airport carpet, luggage out in record time, skip through duty free, a taxi ride in a cab that should have… Source: Delhi Diaries: She welcomes me home…..
Snapshot: The Imperial, Impervious, Kathi Roll
From humble beginnings in Imperial India to The Imperial, India – the kathi roll has traveled far and transcended generations, states, and castes. Having ordered one at The Imperial Hotel in Delhi recently, which did strike me as a little preposterous, they are street food after all, I figured I should try one right back…
Haven’t we seen this somewhere before?
There are monuments in India which have been copied in other destinations but did you know that there are also copycat monuments actually in the same destinations as the originals? In my explorations over the last 12 months, I have found two examples of monuments which have been copied and one entire city! They are…
India and a Rather Unusual Wedding Custom
I am not sure entirely, or really even partially, at what point I fell in love with India. I am still not sure I can put a finger on exactly why I did either. It is a place where I do feel more at home than anywhere else, which is strange as I have…
Villages, where the true heart of India lies.
One can never fail but to be humbled by the hospitality of India’s rural population. Having recently been in Jaisalmer, exploring and inventing new sightsseeing options, I had one morning, got up at 0600 to drag myself around several monuments in 38C, before the day truly heated up. Chuntering incessantly about the heat, huffing and puffing…
GWOC – Something about which I know nothing
On my flight to Manchester last week on Etihad, I read an excellent article by Jamie Lafferty about the Great Wall of China. Excellent not only because it was well written but I also enjoyed the slightly humorous no nonsense style, akin perhaps to my own. It is rarely that I read travel articles, which…
India, An Epicurean’s Delight – mostly.
‘’You can’t eat a mango politely, not if you really want to savour it.’’ This was one of my first lessons in Indian cuisine, from my host, a culinary guru as we sat slurping and sucking as mango juice ran down our arms and landed on the table. I had arrived in India for a…
Delhi Diaries: Valentines Day, Indian Style
Not sure Lucknow or maybe India fully gets Valentines day. Here I am in a restaurant in the newest ”in” place in town. The decor is classic Indian style, tacky overkill with thousands of heart shaped balloons taped to walls, strapped to chairs and dangling from ceiling lights. Mind you, with those descriptions and what…
Delhi Diaries: The changing face of India, women drivers & pilots!
The longer I spend in Delhi, the more I realise just how quickly India is changing. Being in travel and therefore usually immersed in heritage and culture I spend most of my time here surrounded by the traditional but, five years away and a return to Delhi has assisted in emphasising the huge changes which…
Delhi Diaries: Rules of the road – Delhi style
Well it’s taken six months after being reunited to finally get her back into road worthy condition but we made it! The Babe and I taking Delhi by storm. Of course my driving technique needs to be refind to suit local conditions. 1. At a local T junction: Do not slow down on approach, stop,…
Delhi Diaries 7th September – The Old Fashioned Salon
This weekend I experienced two sides to Delhi that were at completely opposite ends of the spectrum. The first was a beauty parlour and the second was volunteering for a waste management company (literally collecting litter) at a ladies only marathon. Like I said, poles apart. As we have by now established, when it comes…