Think of Gujarat and what comes to mind? The first thing every inbound agent will say is that you can’t drink, not strictly true but yes, it can be off-putting to those who enjoy a drink or two with dinner. But once that hurdle has been overcome, what are the words that spring to mind…
Hotel Reviews
I've been reviewing hotels in India now for twenty two years. I get frustrated by how five star properties can get simple things wrong, I am more forgiving with simple properties where the genuine, home-grown hospitality far outways any shortcomings they may have in terms of 'standard' classifications. My reviews don't list numbers of rooms and amenities, quite frankly, I don't care about those; a mini bar or iron in the room does not, in my opinion, add to the experience of the property or the destination. I try to capture the essence of my stay, the experiences, yes the service and the food, but there is no format to my reviews. They are moments captured, the ambance and experiences that will inspire you and that you can look forward to.
My Original Top 4 Off Beat Hotels for Slow Travel
Ever since I first visited India in 1997, I’ve had a passion for what’s different, away from the mainstream destinations but places where there is the opportunity to discover the real India, away from the chaos and mayhem. Where you have time to peel back the layers of a destination, they are invariably hosted by…
Snapshots, Discovering India Differently, Kota, who knew?
The giant orb of a setting sun guided us down river, casting magical lights on the rippled water as, surrounded by the stark cliffs, we spotted nilgai, owls, vultures, storks and crocodiles. This was our spectacular introduction to Kota, Rajasthan, why had no one mentioned this to me before? In a world of over tourism,…
Hotel Review – Woods at Sasan, Gir, Gujarat
For once I had no expectations. I was traveling around Gujarat, making it up as I went, when the invite came to stay at Woods at Sasan. I readily accepted, had no wifi to see where I was going and simply turned up. If anything, given that this was Sasan Gir, home of the Asiatic…
Snapshots: A stay at Walterre and Discoveries around Dehradun
Woken by the sound of rain thundering down on the tin roof of the charming English meets India-style, country cottage. Ventured onto the terrace where we sat in comfort, under the shelter and sipped on g&ts whilst witnessing the angry skies thunder around us and the brilliance of the lightening showcasing the surrounding hills, standing…
Community Homestays, Nepal
And now for something completely different. This was my stay in Pataudi, not only is it (not yet) famous for almost being a UNESCO site, Pataudi was the first destination for a project now called Community Homestay. There are 17 homestays here where you literally stay in a local’s home with the family. This project…
Hotel Review – Welcome to the Pleasuredome, Suryagarh, Jaisalmer
Suryagarh appealed to me on so many levels. Whilst I’d never quit luxury travel (who would?) for the last few years I’ve focused on more the off beat and experiential. For me an albeit fabulous hotel in a mainstream destination coupled with standard sightseeing didn’t showcase what for me is, the real India. Journeys of…
What I regained from a digital detox
I had been offered the privilege of spending two weeks in a Naturopathy Detox Spa. I needed it desperately for mind and body, yet even so, I sent frantic messages before accepting, will there be WiFi? You see the state of my mind? It’s all we seem bothered about these days. To be fair, it…
Glamping With Elephants, Jaipur
The faint warmth of the sun embraces my back as it starts to rise over the hill, the incessant babble of the seven sisters earning their name of jungle babblers in a nearby tree, their fierce chatter drowning out the other birds confidently flitting around close by. Breakfast served to the accompaniment of the crunch…
Vanghat – An Adventure, An Eco Lodge and almost the end of a friendship
When a lodge owner calls to tells you that something you are planning isn’t a very good idea, it would probably be a good idea to listen. But you see, two things were at play here, the first is what is known as cobbler’s shoes and the second, well, I am nothing if not stubborn….
Hoteliering Reimagined, A Destination Reinvented- Narendra Bhawan, Bikaner
Strains of Edith Piaf softly permeate the public spaces. The morning light, filtered through fine jhali work, plays on the textured walls and patterned floors of the passageways and your journey begins For a stay at Narendra Bhawan is a journey, not a moment stuck in time. This place is a dedication to the life…
The Rajbari Bawali; they call it inspired heritage and here’s why…
Way back when, when I was still a tour operator based out of London, James and I, at Ampersand, decided to slow travel down and get people to spend longer in each destination and therefore, have the opportunity to discover more, appreciate it more or simply spend time in one of the hotels they were…
Dudhwa: One Lodge, Two Nights, Three Parks.
‘Why would we fly? We can drive it.’ ‘Well how long will that take?’ ‘Around 8 hours or so.’ I shrugged and half-heartedly nodded as my Indian (resigned) persona kind of, sort of agreed. In England, if I was to set off and drive from my house, for eight hours in any direction, I am…
A Rare Hotel Review, The Four Seasons, Mumbai
Whisked seamlessly in a seven series BMW from the airport to the Four Seasons Hotel, Mumbai, my reintroduction to the Maximum City as it has endlessly been called, after seven years away. My companion was only used to the good life, and whilst I love scruffing around in India, as I call it, tuk tuks,…
TWO QUAINT COTTAGES NEAR NAINTIAL LET YOU SAVOUR THE FEELING OF DOING NOTHING
FOR ALL THINGS GOOD, India has been my second home. Yet, since 1997 for some inexplicable reason, other than a brief visit to Corbett National Park, I had never visited Uttarakhand until this past May. Now, I simply can’t fathom why. Every time is a good time to visit the mountains. The thought of sitting outside a…