OK, the title may cause some sniggers. ‘’OMG, India stinks!’’ declare all the people who have never been there, the same ones who are convinced that all you will be confronted with are an overwhelming wave of poverty and will be struck down imminently, never to recover, with Delhi Belly as soon as one foot…
The Indian Train Experience
Some people, in fact many people, have the notion that train travel in India is romantic. It is not. Interesting, entertaining, and an excellent way of witnessing culture up close and personal, yes, but romantic, no. Basic is a word that springs to mind. If cleanliness is important, then it is best to find another…
People of India Project – Shubham Thakur
I first met Shubham when he was working at Wasabi by Morimoto at the Taj Mahal Hotel in Delhi. I had the privilege to be dining with Marryam H Reshii who was, shall we say, ‘researching,’ for the Times of India Food Awards. Needless to say, all those elements combined to ensure that we had…
Not the bloody Taj Mahal!
I am being controversial but honest, the Taj Mahal? It’s not all that. There you go, I have finally not only said it aloud, but put it in print and out there on the worldwideweb for all to see. I have had to visit it many times (forced by my career choice) but this ‘familiarity’…
Golden and Rhubarb, the Triangles in my Life.
My life seems to be determined by triangles. I spent years living on one vertex of what is probably the most famous triangle in the world, well, apart from the Bermuda one, but then, if I was there I probably wouldn’t be alive, so let’s say, the most liveable triangle in the world, The Golden…
Encounters With Locals – Prosperity in India
To assist with translation: 1. Globally: To have become prosperous = to have gained wealth. In India: To have become prosperous = to have gained weight. 2. Globally: Subtlety and discretion when dealing with strangers, acknowledged traits. In India: Subtlety and discretion when meeting strangers = No such luck. The Encounter: Picture the scene if…
Delhi Diaries: She welcomes me home…..
Step off the plane and the aroma of Delhi hits you. A stroll along the now famously hideous airport carpet, luggage out in record time, skip through duty free, a taxi ride in a cab that should have… Source: Delhi Diaries: She welcomes me home…..
Memsahib’s Dad visits India – Part 1
Introduction: A brief background to this Memsahibs dad ‘series’ is that I have been specialising in travel to India since 1997. I moved here in 2006 and yet my parents never visited me, it just wasn’t mum’s idea of a place she wanted to see. Sadly she died 3 years ago, just before Christmas and…
Snapshots – Shopping in Delhi
Forget Trump, forget Brexit, forget the fact that Delhi govt purchased a snow plough, forget racism against cows – I went into a well known store in Khan Market looking for a present for my fairy godmother who likes all things “fabulous.” Spotted a fancy silver and white mug and thought it would be a…
India and a Rather Unusual Wedding Custom
I am not sure entirely, or really even partially, at what point I fell in love with India. I am still not sure I can put a finger on exactly why I did either. It is a place where I do feel more at home than anywhere else, which is strange as I have…
Women of India – Marryam H Reshii
Marryam H Reshii has been writing about food and lifestyle for the last 30 years. She is the Times of India food critic besides being an independent writer on cuisine and matters gastronomic. She has been working on the Times Food Guide for Delhi for the last several years. In addition, she has done a…
People of India – About
Several years ago, I started to blog about the people of India, they are, for me, what makes this country so extra ordinary. I have never encountered such resilience and resourcefulness (aka jugaad) as I have from the people who truly belong to this country. From innovators to creators, artists to authors, tuk tuk drivers…
People of India – Bikram Grewal
Bikram Grewal is an ornithologist, author, birdwatcher and conservationist from Delhi, India who has written several guides to Indian birds. His father was a senior civil servant in the Indian government. He has been working with governments and private groups to promote Eco-tourism in Madhya Pradesh, Arunachal and Nagaland. His 2002 book Birds of India…
People of India – Sumant Batra
A lawyer of international repute, social commentator, thought leader and creative innovator, Sumant is a many-faceted person with accomplishments in diverse spheres. He romances with life, lives his dreams and thinks through his heart. A cultural champion, museum owner, collector and writer, Sumant Batra is the founder and architect of a number of innovative creative…
People of India – Kiran Manral
Kiran Manral is, amongst many other accolades, the author of five excellent books, she is on the planning board of the Kumaon Literary Festival, Chair of the Women Unlimited Series of the Taj Colloquium, a mentor with Sheroes and Qween, and is an advisor on the Board of Literature Studio, Delhi. Having (almost) met her for the…
Dudhwa: One Lodge, Two Nights, Three Parks.
‘Why would we fly? We can drive it.’ ‘Well how long will that take?’ ‘Around 8 hours or so.’ I shrugged and half-heartedly nodded as my Indian (resigned) persona kind of, sort of agreed. In England, if I was to set off and drive from my house, for eight hours in any direction, I am…
Delhi Diaries, Encounters with Locals, part 2
It seems that it is impossible to walk down the street in India, or get through a single day without having some sort of wonderful if unexpected encounter. Here are some more random, sometimes funny, sometimes poignant encounters from my daily wanderings. Seriously, the Kohinoor Diamond? I was quite happily walking to work the other…
Delhi Diaries: The changing face of India, women drivers & pilots!
The longer I spend in Delhi, the more I realise just how quickly India is changing. Being in travel and therefore usually immersed in heritage and culture I spend most of my time here surrounded by the traditional but, five years away and a return to Delhi has assisted in emphasising the huge changes which…
Delhi Diaries: Rules of the road – Delhi style
Well it’s taken six months after being reunited to finally get her back into road worthy condition but we made it! The Babe and I taking Delhi by storm. Of course my driving technique needs to be refind to suit local conditions. 1. At a local T junction: Do not slow down on approach, stop,…
The People of India – JANHAVI PRASADA
Hill stations in India are charming and reminiscent of the British Raj. I live in a house called Abbotsford that belonged to an Englishman, John Hope Simpson, Esquire of the Indian Civil Service in the erstwhile United Province of Agra and Oudh. My great grand parents bought it in 1903. A century year old legacy…
Delhi Diaries 7th September – The Old Fashioned Salon
This weekend I experienced two sides to Delhi that were at completely opposite ends of the spectrum. The first was a beauty parlour and the second was volunteering for a waste management company (literally collecting litter) at a ladies only marathon. Like I said, poles apart. As we have by now established, when it comes…
Travels in India, dress sense, east vs west
There really is nothing quite so elegant as an Indian lady in a sari. I don’t think any other national dress can even begin to compete and what is wonderful is that they are still widely worn throughout the country. The colours are so vibrant, reds, oranges, turquoise to name hardly any (there is no…
Delhi Diaries: The Value of a Perfectly Round Roti
This week, I went out discovering Delhi, as I do. One of my visits was to the Bangla Sahib Gurudwara, perhaps the most famous Gurudwara in India, outside of Amritsar. Here they also feed thousands of people every single day, and so after doing the usual rounds, I ventured into the kitchen which is run…
Delhi Diaries: 2nd August ’15
Life starts to settle down and routines start to form. I have time to venture further and I am intrigued to discover what changes have happened since I have been away, for sure, Delhi is still the same old crazy place, but it would appear that it is attempting a new level of sophistication –…
Delhi Diaries: 5th July
Life back in India, some things change, some things stay the same. Delhi, as happens with any city, continues to evolve, when one is here all the time, it is harder to notice the changes. During my time away, the hideous rape case that shocked the world took place and, despite it being too late…
Delhi Diaries: 28 June 2015 When India works with you.
Twenty months ago, I wrote a couple of blog pieces about having moved back to Delhi, or so I thought, as in moved back to Delhi, not wrote the pieces, they are there for all to see. But you see, as I have said many times, India can be a cruel mistress, though in my…
Delhi Diaries: About Kalpana
“But you have to get a maid, you can’t survive without one!” This was the refrain I heard many times on moving to Delhi last time and one which I realised was very, very true. I was promptly found Flopsy by my landlady who was ultimately usurped by Kalpana – for that debacle,read https://memsahibinindia.wordpress.com/2013/11/15/dealing-with-house-staff-part-2-flips-flops-at-50-paces/ and that’s who…
Food in India, A Carnivores Delight?
One perception of India is that it is a mainly vegetarian country. This is true to a certain extent. Many people are pure vegetarian, some extend this to not including cheese or eggs – you should see the scramble for eggless cake recipes (no pun intended). Hindu’s don’t eat beef, Muslims don’t eat pork, and Jains…
Delhi Diaries: She welcomes me home…..
Step off the plane and the aroma of Delhi hits you. A stroll along the now famously hideous airport carpet, luggage out in record time, skip through duty free, a taxi ride in a cab that should have been scrapped 20 years ago, the 3 inevitable questions from the taxi driver, ”Your country madam, your…
Delhi Diaries: Finding Digs in Delhi
You wouldn’t think that finding accommodation in Delhi would be such a mine field, but as a single female, trust me, finding somewhere to live was shall we say tricky. You see, I am torn. I love Delhi, and to live in Delhi with all of its history and culture, rather than live in the…
Curry for breakfast – seriously?
Jeepers, not another bloody bowl of cardboard shreds! As I sit and gaze dejectedly down at the milky grey mass, sitting stodge-like in the bottom of my bowl, my soul is fast becoming destroyed and the motivation to get up on a morning is fast becoming a distant memory.
Delhi Diaries: Dealing with house staff part 2 (Flips flops at 50 paces)
My first mistake regarding my maid, who was found for me by my helpful landlady, was to translate INR into GBP. Yes I know she only came for 1.5 hours each morning but surely the salary I was paying her was, even by Delhi maid standards, a pittance. So, I upped it, not by much,…
Delhi Diaries: Dealing with house staff – part 1
Having never had staff in the UK I couldn’t see why I would need them just because I had moved to Delhi, ‘Oh, you must find staff’ everyone said, ‘a reliable maid and a good driver at least, they can make or break your life here’, and I was soon to realise just how true…
Horn Please! Indian roads, journeys from heaven and journeys from hell.
I am not a nervous passenger by any stretch of the imagination. I can quite happily be chauffeured around on the worst of Indian roads, barely blinking at what most travellers to the country find, what can be described at best, as utterly terrifying. It does me good on occasion when friends, who have never…