The year was 2020 and, as I would, thinking that the pandemic would be a storm in a tea cup, I set off to Nepal on a consultancy project as part of the work we do with Indian Experiences. A few weeks earlier, I had been introduced to Shiva Dhakal, found of Royal Mountain Travel…
Sula Wine – Sustainability and Stays
Think Nashik 20 or even 10 yrs ago, and people mentioned temples, pilgrimages & the Kumbh Mela. But today, the first word from most people’s lips is ‘wine.’ This is thanks to Rajeev Samant who, having returned from California, was having trouble sourcing good quality, affordable wine in India. Quickly realising that if this situation…
Slow it down
Travel: The written word vs reality. I’m currently consulting on a wonderful project, putting together India, Nepal and Bhutan portfolios. This has involved writing up itineraries and I had an awakening! Itineraries are, more often than not, put together determined by facts. The drive is so long, these are the activities clients do on arrival,…
Reflections on a Perfect Stay, Sarai at Toria
Take a wildlife biologist, author, film maker and conservationist and a wildlife photographer, film maker & writer, add specialist knowledge of Panna National Park (since 1995) a location adjacent to the Ken River, and an idea which initially began as a community project & you know it’s going to be good. Good is in fact,…
Lessons from the Road
One thing you’ll always notice about India is there always noise. This isn’t just in the cities (where it is getting too much) but in the forests, plantations, on the beaches, nature makes her presence felt, birds, insects, animals, there’s always a symphony of sound. I’ve had conversations about this with many Indian friends. In…
Changing the narrative at The Indian Summer House.
Changing The Narrative. I stayed recently at the rather fabulous Indian Summer House in Kerala. The owner happened to be out of station and so we had a video call. I think my opening gambit was, “Well you don’t need me to tell you how fabulous this is.” His reply, “Thank you, I have always…
Could Mahua Become The National Drink of India?
I remember the first time I tried it. I had an audience, eight eager faces anticipating what my reaction would be. Years ago (okay, actually decades) when I was a ski rep, my team would buy me tequila, which I hated, purely for their own amusement, it would appear my tequila face was a sight…
Roopesh Rai on being pro-planet, pro-people, and for profit!
Roopesh and I keep meeting, chatting and discussing various projects. He called in to see me recently to discuss his latest project, a mission to cross 6 states of India by cycle. He is doing this to reach out to the people of India, as he says, ‘The last remaining custodians of our natural heritage…
#Celebrate25K2K – Day 3 – Johns Farm and Home
Serendipity has played such a major part in this trip, both in the planning stage and now on the ground. There’s a homestay I’ve wanted to visit for a while now, but there literally was no room at the inn. So, another one was suggested, I agreed but having zero time to research it, turned…
Wilderness without Wifi – The Magic of Fringe Ford
The first Shaji bombshell came as I was exclaiming over the view. We’d just met. A tiger had killed a deer right in front of the lodge two days before and dragged its kill downstream. “We’ll take a walk that way tomorrow,” he said, “and see if we can find it.” And with that, he…
#Celebrate25K2K Day 01, Kerala backwaters.
A cheeky little upgrade from Delhi to Cochin was a lovely welcome back, particularly after the hellish transit procedure at Delhi Airport. Be warned if on connnecting flights. After that the day just got better and better. My first south Indian breakfast was on board and then on arrival in Cochin I was whisked off…
Celebrating 25 years in India
This is it. My 25th year in India. I had no idea on that first trip, just where the journey would take me. People say to me, “Come on, 25 years, haven’t you seen it all?” And the answer, quite simply, is no, no where near. I’ve tried, goodness knows I’ve tried, but you see,…
The Art Of Bespoke Travel
“If you havent seen it, you can’t sell it.” This was the philosophy that was told to me when I first started in the travel industry. To see it is not just to know it, but it’s also to experience it, to feel it. Product knowledge is vital, particularly when you really want to feature…
Because you are beautiful…
May I take your photograph, I ask (always). They pat their hair and ask why?“Because you are beautiful,” is my reply. They respond in various ways, some surprised, some shy, some laugh. But I repeat sincerely, “Because you are beautiful.” I can’t explain with my dreadful Hindi what I would like to add, “Because your…
Chicken Tikka Masala? There’s no such thing…
This week we mourn the sad passing of Ali Ahmed Aslam of Glasgow’s inimitable Shish Mahal, and founder of Britains National Dish, chicken tikka masala, so I thought it an opportune moment to share this article originally written in 2020. Two things have happened in the last couple of days to prompt this article. The…
Delhi’s Top 10 (Original) Eateries according to Celebrated Food Critic Marryam Reshii
Marryam H Reshii has been writing about food and lifestyle for the last 35 years. She is the Times of India food critic and has worked on the Times Food Guide for Delhi for many years, besides being an independent writer on cuisine and matters gastronomic. In addition, she has written a number of books…
Cheetahs are reintroduced to India but what about the indigenous people of Kuno Palpur?
There’s been a lot of talk over the last couple of years amongst a niche section of society, this is a section however, that whilst relatively small, crosses all boundaries of age and sex, it is a broad cross section of people bound by a common passion, and that passion is the wildlife of India….
India: Knowing a Little Bit About a Lot Goes a Long Way
Face book today reminded me of this post below. It made me think. I started specialising in India as a destination in 1998. We had a policy; if you hadn’t seen it, you couldn’t sell it. I would travel to India, Sri Lanka, Bhutan and Nepal 2-3 times a year to ‘learn’ the destination in…
Has tourism failed the camels which made Pushkar Camel Fair a Globally Recognised tourist event?
It has become a scene as synonymous with India as the Taj Mahal, thousands of Raika camel traders with their immaculate white dhotis and brilliant and intricately tied red turbans, squatting, drinking chai amidst their brilliantly festooned camels. ‘’Every year, some 30,000 camels descend on Pushkar, a small town in the state of Rajasthan, in…
The Raika Journey – Immersive Tourism Supporting the Camel herders of Rajasthan
The Raika are a community in peril, their lifestyle is in danger and their future is uncertain. The Raika provide the globally recognisable images we see of the Pushkar Camel Fair and yet, this fair provides nothing towards their wellbeing and sustainability. To delve a little into their history is to open a Pandora’s Box of…
WTM RESPONSIBLE TOURISM AWARDS INDIA LEADS THE WAY – 17 WINNERS REVEALED
India was the standout destination at this year’s awards, winning 17 accolades and emerging as a “leading country for responsible tourism.” An international panel of judges came together remotely to determine the top achievers. First launched in 2004, the awards recognise and reward businesses, destinations and operations contributing to a more sustainable and tourism industry….
Three hotels in Gujarat which aren’t quite what you’d expect.
Think of Gujarat and what comes to mind? The first thing every inbound agent will say is that you can’t drink, not strictly true but yes, it can be off-putting to those who enjoy a drink or two with dinner. But once that hurdle has been overcome, what are the words that spring to mind…
India’s Natural Wonders….. Wildlife parks beyond the tiger
My passion for wildlife had an accidental start. A failed relationship and a grumpy boss led me to take a sabbatical for six months running the fabulous and still my favourite lodge, Shergarh in Kanha National Park (Yes, the inspiration behind by book, Escape to India). This initially, this wasn’t for the wildlife, but because…
Discovering India Differently: Eco Lodges in Corbett National Park
My jaw hit the hideously over-patterned carpet. There he stood, microphone in hand bleating out something entirely unrecognisable, both for his apparent ability to change key four times in three notes, and the fact that the volume was set so high as to distort anything that was forced, hurricane like, out of the speakers, the…
The Mistress That Is India
India can’t be instantly appreciated, nor can she be rushed. She will reveal herself in her own time, she will move at her own pace. You can’t demand from her nor hurry her along. India is magical, baffling, confusing and unfathomable and frustrating. She is captivating and beguiling, fascinating, awe inspiring but most of…
India’s Top 13 Street Foods As Voted By Its Most Intrepid Travellers
It all started with a plain dosa: one of those giant crisp pancakes made with fermented rice and lentil batter. It was 1998 and I was on my very first trip to India; there weren’t many places to stop and refuel on long, gruelling drives, but our driver knew the best places for a great…
Discovering Agra Differently (and more sustainably)
The Taj Mahal re opens today, there is no denying that it is a magnificent monument (putting my prejudices aside here!) but if you are going to visit Agra, take time out to appreciate the city for what else it has to offer, because, there is far more to it than meets the eye and…
The Murder and the Lion – Wildlife Tales from Gujarat
We had heard there was a murder and were invited to investigate. Anyone who has watched any crime drama wants to get involved right? In this instance a murder could mean a double murder because for there to be a murder chances are that there had been a death that could have been a murder…
So what exactly is a micro-destination?
I saw a video clip a few weeks ago by NDTV that made me smile. It was all about micro destinations and how they are the future of travel. Now I understand that marketing constantly needs new spins but what made me really smile about this was that they were featuring what I call destination…
Focus on Mainstream Destinations for a More Sustainable Travel World
At the start of the pandemic, there were a lot of knee jerk reactions as to what would save tourism in India. Many rightly said domestic tourism and in terms of many hotels this is correct, however this is not the case for many inbound DMC’s. Another reaction was that sustainable travel would save the…
My Top Five Books Tiger Centric Books – A great and diverse small collection for International Tiger Day 2020
It’s International Tiger Day, social media will be flooded with images of this truly magnificent animal, hopefully also praise for the forest guards who spend their lives protecting them, the conservation groups who also do their utmost to raise awareness to protect this endangered species, and the lodge owners who provide wonderful accommodation for you…
People of India Project – Varun Narain Mathur
I first met Varun many years ago when he, way ahead of the game, had set up a company to promote extraordinary guides of India, true experts who believed in showcasing the real India along side their speciaist fields. Then, by some quirk of fate, I ended up working along side him for a large…
Discovering India Differently: Adventure Travel in Rajasthan
A while ago I was asked if I’d give a talk on travel in India, nothing unusual there. I happily agreed. I was told they would revert with the topic and fellow speakers. I was then told the topic, Adventure Tourism. I panicked slightly, I mean I love a bit of horse riding and white-water…
Vindaloo,Who Knew?
This is, or should I say was, a pork vindaloo. I kind of forgot to take the before picture. It was rather tasty. Now, the mere mention of a vindaloo in the UK gives connotations of toilet rolls being placed in fridges and lager louts at the end of the Westgate run, a pub crawl…
Cultural Intelligence, leadership and travel
I’ve started a senior leader’s course with Common Purpose, as part of this we listen to a Ted X talk on Cultural Intelligence with Julia Middleton, its founder. This talk Ended with, ‘I want to be a leader because I want to change things.’ Which immediately resonated with me as it relates so much to…
People of India Project – Bob Rupani
I’ve never actually met Bob, and I never usually feature people I’ve never chewed the fat with over a campfire or an Old Monk, but his was the first book I bought when I moved to India. Road tripping is something we sort of know about in the UK, but it was after I moved…
The People of India Project – Shilpa Sharma
Shilpa started Breakaway to share her love for travel with others, and the philosophy of the company is very much ‘Beyond the Brochure’ experiences, enabling guests to enrich themselves with the connections made during their travels. Here are her 15 Questions in 5 Minutes: Who you are (naturally!) I’m Shilpa, a Creative entrepreneur with business interests in…
The People of India Project – Gaurav Bhatnagar
I first met Gaurav at the Outlook Traveller Responsible Tourism Awards in Delhi where he was a gold medalist! He is the inspirational figure behind The Folk Tales, which started in 2013 with the aim of offering travelers a chance to experience life in rural India by integrating tourism with socially and environmentally responsible initiatives…
The People of India Project – Sanjay Thakur
Sanjay and I had been in contact for some time but I first got to meet him by chance whilst consulting with a DMC in Delhi on a day when he was visiting. I didn’t know much about the NE of India at that stage, I’d seen some itineraries over the years but they…
Discovering India Differently: Jodhpur
THINK JODHPUR and quite rightly the image of Mehrangarh Fort pops in to your mind. It is undoubtedly magnificent, in my opinion, the most impressive of all the forts in Rajasthan (on the main circuit) and one monument that I encourage a visit to. It is excellently curated and well maintained, the jewel in…
Discovering Wales Differently
I’m sorry, what, bog snorkeling? Did I read that right? What on earth is Bog Snorkeling? Of course, the person who sent this text knew exactly what they were doing, having followed my less than conventional travels around India for 20 years. The minute they heard that I was heading to Wales, they asked where…
The World’s Tallest, Highest, wettest, most buoyant, gruesome and most bizarre, only in India!
Yesterday there was an article in the Guardian, bakers and chefs in the southern state of Kerala had baked what they said was the world’s longest cake at (approx.) 6.5kms, I suppose the actual length depends on how many hungry people there wer around! But it got me thinking, where in the world can you…
Supporting India: Small/Local NGO’s and Aid Centres That Need Your Support
The people of India are enduring unimaginable hardship, hospitals are overwhelmed, and there is a critical shortage of oxygen and ventilators, livelihoods have been lost and people are starving. Many of you have messaged us to ask me how you can help with the smaller organisations who may not be getting much exposure, but which…
Sri Lanka & A Truly Extraordiary Wildlife Experience
They said the meeting place was by the Buddha statue just on the edge of the town. A short while later they called to see if I’d reached. ‘I don’t think so,” was my response, “Is it obvious, could I have missed it?” I credit them for not being sarcastic in their response, being, as…
Shops, Restaurants, Heritage and More at The Piece Hall
Why don’t you go to The Piece Hall? Where? The Piece Hall? Why? It’s a Grade 01 listed building and has got lots of shops. It didn’t do it for me. I didn’t go. I didn’t know what I was missing. I’ve since visited. I do now. I then said I was going to write…
People of India Project: Sameer Shisodia
I’m not sure how Sameer and I first connected. We’ve chatted about this and come to the conclusion that social media will have played a part, sharing similar passions is another. He is one of those people that one just inherently knows that, despite having few meetings in the flesh, we’re from the same tribe…
Five Things You Never Knew You Needed to Know About Rhubarb
It’s cold, even by normal Yorkshire standards. Snow is on the ground and for several days temperatures hover around 0C, to which phone apps add comments such as ‘feels like -5C, which aren’t terribly helpful. Weather like this means a couple of things. The first is quite obvious, yes, it’s winter in Yorkshire, fortunately we…
The Mysteries of Mountains
Ghostly, ethereal Layer upon interwoven layer of mountains Shrouded in a gossamer mist Haunting, mysterious. Standing proud or hunched? Kind or cruel? Smugglers, nomads, shepherds, Centuries of stories Love? Maybe But bravery, grief, hardship, sorrow then death Hidden in their rugged and steadfast embrace. The view, this view induces gazing Wistful Pondering The mysteries of…