Fog + Gatiman = latest train scam. At an ungodly hour, bleary eyed, and trying to enter New Delhi train station, we heard, “No madam, you must go to that entrance.” Half asleep I complied. At that entrance, an official looking man in a suit said, “Madam, tickets please.” I complied. Then, “Madam, Bhopal Shatabdi,…
The First Lodge in Zambia to be awarded Fair Trade Tourism Certification
The South Luangwa in Zambia, versatile options for extraordinary safaris. I had arrived at Flatdogs C amp in Zambia at night, meaning that I couldn’t see much of my surroundings. The camp is part owned by a friend of mine who, I’d like to say, having taken inspiration from me at quitting a great…
Discovering Hampi – Differently of course!
Indian Experiences, has always believed in seeking out true & authentic experiences. A city is so much more than its monuments, it is made up of its food, arts, crafts, chai walas, designers, in short, it’s people. I’ve spent weeks in each city, seeking out those people for whom their city is their passion &…
Wellbeing in India.
India is the birthplace of Ayurveda and yoga. Treatments and practices which look at the causes rather than the symptoms. Practises which focus on wellbeing in the present, ongoing, health for life rather than retrospectively dealing with ill health. My first foray into Ayurveda came in 1999 when I decided to check out a series…
Roaming with the Wild: India’s Top 10 Wildlife Parks
India’s diverse landscapes are a playground for nature enthusiasts and wildlife lovers. From majestic tigers prowling through lush jungles to the Wild Ass which thrive in the desert of Kutch, Asiatic elephants in the lush and verdant jungles of Corbett in the north and Nagarhole south, lions in Gujarat and a burgeoning leopard population throughout,…
Seeking: Explorers and Adventurers for travel beyond the mainstream.
Celebrating a quarter century of determinedly trawling India, from Kutch to Kohima, Kashmir to Kerala, seeking the extraordinary, peeking behind closed doors, never accepting the offerings of face value, knowing there could be more. Digging in the heels, digging out the stories, no stone has been left unturned in order to peel back the layers…
Just a little bit about mindful travel
For me, mindful travel isn’t just about getting off beat. There is no point in driving to or even through off beat destinations or just staying there for a night, clicking a couple of pictures of locals or rural life and then moving on to the next destination. With the selfie and Instagram, ‘need to…
Discovering Destinations Differently
The origin of “Discovering Destinations Differently.” Back in 2015 I started visiting mainstream destinations, spending a day visiting what all tour companies showcase and then, bucket list ticked I’d spend another week there finding out what else made those destinations tick. Why else they were ‘famous?’ What did locals do, where did they eat, what…
Discovering Nepal Differently – Have you heard of Kirtipur?
Discovering Nepal Differently. You’ve heard of Kathmandu, but have you heard of Kirtipur? It’s one of those little-known gems that’s only 7 kms from Kathmandu but a world away from the mainstream tourist circuit. Sitting on a hillside next to the Hattiban Forest, it is actually one of the Kathmandu Valley’s oldest Newari towns dating back to 1099AD….
CHN: Introducing New Destinations Whilst Combatting Over Tourism in Nepal.
How do you cope, in these days of gross over tourism, with promoting fabulous new destinations that you discover and want to shout to the world about, but don’t want to see go the same way? I now see destinations I visited some 20-25 years ago which were extraordinary and my heart bleeds at what…
Sustainable Travel: An Interview with Shiva Dhakal Founder of Community Homestays Nepal
The year was 2020 and, as I would, thinking that the pandemic would be a storm in a tea cup, I set off to Nepal on a consultancy project as part of the work we do with Indian Experiences. A few weeks earlier, I had been introduced to Shiva Dhakal, found of Royal Mountain Travel…
Sula Wine – Sustainability and Stays
Think Nashik 20 or even 10 yrs ago, and people mentioned temples, pilgrimages & the Kumbh Mela. But today, the first word from most people’s lips is ‘wine.’ This is thanks to Rajeev Samant who, having returned from California, was having trouble sourcing good quality, affordable wine in India. Quickly realising that if this situation…
Slow it down
Travel: The written word vs reality. I’m currently consulting on a wonderful project, putting together India, Nepal and Bhutan portfolios. This has involved writing up itineraries and I had an awakening! Itineraries are, more often than not, put together determined by facts. The drive is so long, these are the activities clients do on arrival,…
Reflections on a Perfect Stay, Sarai at Toria
Take a wildlife biologist, author, film maker and conservationist and a wildlife photographer, film maker & writer, add specialist knowledge of Panna National Park (since 1995) a location adjacent to the Ken River, and an idea which initially began as a community project & you know it’s going to be good. Good is in fact,…
Lessons from the Road
One thing you’ll always notice about India is there always noise. This isn’t just in the cities (where it is getting too much) but in the forests, plantations, on the beaches, nature makes her presence felt, birds, insects, animals, there’s always a symphony of sound. I’ve had conversations about this with many Indian friends. In…
Changing the narrative at The Indian Summer House.
Changing The Narrative. I stayed recently at the rather fabulous Indian Summer House in Kerala. The owner happened to be out of station and so we had a video call. I think my opening gambit was, “Well you don’t need me to tell you how fabulous this is.” His reply, “Thank you, I have always…
Could Mahua Become The National Drink of India?
I remember the first time I tried it. I had an audience, eight eager faces anticipating what my reaction would be. Years ago (okay, actually decades) when I was a ski rep, my team would buy me tequila, which I hated, purely for their own amusement, it would appear my tequila face was a sight…
Roopesh Rai on being pro-planet, pro-people, and for profit!
Roopesh and I keep meeting, chatting and discussing various projects. He called in to see me recently to discuss his latest project, a mission to cross 6 states of India by cycle. He is doing this to reach out to the people of India, as he says, ‘The last remaining custodians of our natural heritage…
#Celebrate25K2K – Day 3 – Johns Farm and Home
Serendipity has played such a major part in this trip, both in the planning stage and now on the ground. There’s a homestay I’ve wanted to visit for a while now, but there literally was no room at the inn. So, another one was suggested, I agreed but having zero time to research it, turned…
Wilderness without Wifi – The Magic of Fringe Ford
The first Shaji bombshell came as I was exclaiming over the view. We’d just met. A tiger had killed a deer right in front of the lodge two days before and dragged its kill downstream. “We’ll take a walk that way tomorrow,” he said, “and see if we can find it.” And with that, he…
#Celebrate25K2K Day 01, Kerala backwaters.
A cheeky little upgrade from Delhi to Cochin was a lovely welcome back, particularly after the hellish transit procedure at Delhi Airport. Be warned if on connnecting flights. After that the day just got better and better. My first south Indian breakfast was on board and then on arrival in Cochin I was whisked off…
Celebrating 25 years in India
This is it. My 25th year in India. I had no idea on that first trip, just where the journey would take me. People say to me, “Come on, 25 years, haven’t you seen it all?” And the answer, quite simply, is no, no where near. I’ve tried, goodness knows I’ve tried, but you see,…
The Art Of Bespoke Travel
“If you havent seen it, you can’t sell it.” This was the philosophy that was told to me when I first started in the travel industry. To see it is not just to know it, but it’s also to experience it, to feel it. Product knowledge is vital, particularly when you really want to feature…
Because you are beautiful…
May I take your photograph, I ask (always). They pat their hair and ask why?“Because you are beautiful,” is my reply. They respond in various ways, some surprised, some shy, some laugh. But I repeat sincerely, “Because you are beautiful.” I can’t explain with my dreadful Hindi what I would like to add, “Because your…
Chicken Tikka Masala? There’s no such thing…
This week we mourn the sad passing of Ali Ahmed Aslam of Glasgow’s inimitable Shish Mahal, and founder of Britains National Dish, chicken tikka masala, so I thought it an opportune moment to share this article originally written in 2020. Two things have happened in the last couple of days to prompt this article. The…
Delhi’s Top 10 (Original) Eateries according to Celebrated Food Critic Marryam Reshii
Marryam H Reshii has been writing about food and lifestyle for the last 35 years. She is the Times of India food critic and has worked on the Times Food Guide for Delhi for many years, besides being an independent writer on cuisine and matters gastronomic. In addition, she has written a number of books…
Cheetahs are reintroduced to India but what about the indigenous people of Kuno Palpur?
There’s been a lot of talk over the last couple of years amongst a niche section of society, this is a section however, that whilst relatively small, crosses all boundaries of age and sex, it is a broad cross section of people bound by a common passion, and that passion is the wildlife of India….
India: Knowing a Little Bit About a Lot Goes a Long Way
Face book today reminded me of this post below. It made me think. I started specialising in India as a destination in 1998. We had a policy; if you hadn’t seen it, you couldn’t sell it. I would travel to India, Sri Lanka, Bhutan and Nepal 2-3 times a year to ‘learn’ the destination in…
Has tourism failed the camels which made Pushkar Camel Fair a Globally Recognised tourist event?
It has become a scene as synonymous with India as the Taj Mahal, thousands of Raika camel traders with their immaculate white dhotis and brilliant and intricately tied red turbans, squatting, drinking chai amidst their brilliantly festooned camels. ‘’Every year, some 30,000 camels descend on Pushkar, a small town in the state of Rajasthan, in…
The Raika Journey – Immersive Tourism Supporting the Camel herders of Rajasthan
The Raika are a community in peril, their lifestyle is in danger and their future is uncertain. The Raika provide the globally recognisable images we see of the Pushkar Camel Fair and yet, this fair provides nothing towards their wellbeing and sustainability. To delve a little into their history is to open a Pandora’s Box of…
WTM RESPONSIBLE TOURISM AWARDS INDIA LEADS THE WAY – 17 WINNERS REVEALED
India was the standout destination at this year’s awards, winning 17 accolades and emerging as a “leading country for responsible tourism.” An international panel of judges came together remotely to determine the top achievers. First launched in 2004, the awards recognise and reward businesses, destinations and operations contributing to a more sustainable and tourism industry….
Three hotels in Gujarat which aren’t quite what you’d expect.
Think of Gujarat and what comes to mind? The first thing every inbound agent will say is that you can’t drink, not strictly true but yes, it can be off-putting to those who enjoy a drink or two with dinner. But once that hurdle has been overcome, what are the words that spring to mind…
India’s Natural Wonders….. Wildlife parks beyond the tiger
My passion for wildlife had an accidental start. A failed relationship and a grumpy boss led me to take a sabbatical for six months running the fabulous and still my favourite lodge, Shergarh in Kanha National Park (Yes, the inspiration behind by book, Escape to India). This initially, this wasn’t for the wildlife, but because…
Discovering India Differently: Eco Lodges in Corbett National Park
My jaw hit the hideously over-patterned carpet. There he stood, microphone in hand bleating out something entirely unrecognisable, both for his apparent ability to change key four times in three notes, and the fact that the volume was set so high as to distort anything that was forced, hurricane like, out of the speakers, the…
The Mistress That Is India
India can’t be instantly appreciated, nor can she be rushed. She will reveal herself in her own time, she will move at her own pace. You can’t demand from her nor hurry her along. India is magical, baffling, confusing and unfathomable and frustrating. She is captivating and beguiling, fascinating, awe inspiring but most of…
India’s Top 13 Street Foods As Voted By Its Most Intrepid Travellers
It all started with a plain dosa: one of those giant crisp pancakes made with fermented rice and lentil batter. It was 1998 and I was on my very first trip to India; there weren’t many places to stop and refuel on long, gruelling drives, but our driver knew the best places for a great…
Discovering Agra Differently (and more sustainably)
The Taj Mahal re opens today, there is no denying that it is a magnificent monument (putting my prejudices aside here!) but if you are going to visit Agra, take time out to appreciate the city for what else it has to offer, because, there is far more to it than meets the eye and…
The Murder and the Lion – Wildlife Tales from Gujarat
We had heard there was a murder and were invited to investigate. Anyone who has watched any crime drama wants to get involved right? In this instance a murder could mean a double murder because for there to be a murder chances are that there had been a death that could have been a murder…
So what exactly is a micro-destination?
I saw a video clip a few weeks ago by NDTV that made me smile. It was all about micro destinations and how they are the future of travel. Now I understand that marketing constantly needs new spins but what made me really smile about this was that they were featuring what I call destination…
Focus on Mainstream Destinations for a More Sustainable Travel World
At the start of the pandemic, there were a lot of knee jerk reactions as to what would save tourism in India. Many rightly said domestic tourism and in terms of many hotels this is correct, however this is not the case for many inbound DMC’s. Another reaction was that sustainable travel would save the…
My Top Five Books Tiger Centric Books – A great and diverse small collection for International Tiger Day 2020
It’s International Tiger Day, social media will be flooded with images of this truly magnificent animal, hopefully also praise for the forest guards who spend their lives protecting them, the conservation groups who also do their utmost to raise awareness to protect this endangered species, and the lodge owners who provide wonderful accommodation for you…
People of India Project – Varun Narain Mathur
I first met Varun many years ago when he, way ahead of the game, had set up a company to promote extraordinary guides of India, true experts who believed in showcasing the real India along side their speciaist fields. Then, by some quirk of fate, I ended up working along side him for a large…
Discovering India Differently: Adventure Travel in Rajasthan
A while ago I was asked if I’d give a talk on travel in India, nothing unusual there. I happily agreed. I was told they would revert with the topic and fellow speakers. I was then told the topic, Adventure Tourism. I panicked slightly, I mean I love a bit of horse riding and white-water…
Vindaloo,Who Knew?
This is, or should I say was, a pork vindaloo. I kind of forgot to take the before picture. It was rather tasty. Now, the mere mention of a vindaloo in the UK gives connotations of toilet rolls being placed in fridges and lager louts at the end of the Westgate run, a pub crawl…
Cultural Intelligence, leadership and travel
I’ve started a senior leader’s course with Common Purpose, as part of this we listen to a Ted X talk on Cultural Intelligence with Julia Middleton, its founder. This talk Ended with, ‘I want to be a leader because I want to change things.’ Which immediately resonated with me as it relates so much to…
People of India Project – Bob Rupani
I’ve never actually met Bob, and I never usually feature people I’ve never chewed the fat with over a campfire or an Old Monk, but his was the first book I bought when I moved to India. Road tripping is something we sort of know about in the UK, but it was after I moved…
The People of India Project – Shilpa Sharma
Shilpa started Breakaway to share her love for travel with others, and the philosophy of the company is very much ‘Beyond the Brochure’ experiences, enabling guests to enrich themselves with the connections made during their travels. Here are her 15 Questions in 5 Minutes: Who you are (naturally!) I’m Shilpa, a Creative entrepreneur with business interests in…
The People of India Project – Gaurav Bhatnagar
I first met Gaurav at the Outlook Traveller Responsible Tourism Awards in Delhi where he was a gold medalist! He is the inspirational figure behind The Folk Tales, which started in 2013 with the aim of offering travelers a chance to experience life in rural India by integrating tourism with socially and environmentally responsible initiatives…